Croatia, Zadar, at the airport, 30 October 2025

Thomas walked us to the bus, he insisted. Service with Noble Caledonia is at a different level. The bus arrived and we boarded it with no issues and 20 minutes later we were at the airport.

We checked in for our flight and are now having a coffee and an apple cider.

We have to collect our bags in Zagreb. We had planned to check the bags all the way to Cape Town. Unfortunately not an available option.

Bombardier Dash 8 - Q400

Croatia, Zadar, our last day 30th October 2025

Our walk throught the old town. Zadar has a rich history, beginning as a Neolithic settlement that became a Liburnian and then a Roman colony with a rectangular street plan. 

The tower of shame where delinquents were tied up and made to repent their crime in front of everyone in the town.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, it was ruled by various powers, including the Byzantines, Venetians, Austrians, and Italians, before becoming part of Croatia in 1991.

The convent hosts a history of Art that the nuns have kept safe. The Convent and the Church of Santa Maria were built in the early hours of Christianity. It preserves elements from the 11th century, such as the tower. It was built about a Roman temple, which contains probably the best collection of historical objects of Zadar.

Today, this history is visible in its blend of ancient, medieval, and modern architecture, including Roman ruins, Venetian fortifications (some are UNESCO World Heritage sites), and Romanesque churches.

• Neolithic and Liburnian origins: The area was first settled in the Neolithic period, and the Liburnians established it as a settlement around the 9th century BC.

• Roman conquest: The Romans conquered the city in the 2nd century BC, laying out the city's grid-like street plan, building a forum, and constructing an aqueduct.

 

• Strategic importance: Zadar became an important trading port on the Adriatic coast.

• Byzantine and Croatian rule: It later became the capital of the Byzantine province of Dalmatia and was also under Croatian rule, during which time it is considered a "Golden Age" marked by prosperity.

• Venetian influence: The Venetians took control in the 15th century, a period that brought both architectural splendor and political tension. They built extensive defensive walls, some of which are now on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Designed by architect Nikola Bašić, the Sea Organ (known as Morske orgulje in Croatian) is a 230-foot long installation featuring 35 tubes that create musical sounds when the waves interact with them. As the waves crash into the organ, air is pushed through the pipes, producing an ethereal, wind-like sound.

It has multiple solar cells in a round circle that absorb the sun and let tge power out at night as a multiple LED show similar to a disco ball.

It also has all of the planets in sequence and proportionaly sized.

Beautiful churches as always dedicated to tge saints relics that washed up on this shore and protect the town.

Croatia. Rovinj for Pula 29th October 2025

The 6th biggest amphitheater is found in Pula. Roman artifacts exist everywhere. The previous post explains the history of Istria, which includes Pula.

Map of the roman roads

The roman temple

Pula's idiosyncrasies reflect its unique history and location, blending ancient Roman heritage, Austro-Hungarian military structures, and a relaxed, artsy Istrian identity. The city is not only defined by its famed Roman amphitheater but also by its unexpected quirks. 

Unlike cities where ancient structures are merely museum pieces, Pula has a practical relationship with its Roman past. 

The living Arena: The Amphitheater is not a static ruin but a vibrant cultural hub, hosting modern concerts, festivals, and even gladiator reenactments.

A hidden mosaic: The beautifully preserved "Punishment of Dirce" mosaic isn't in a museum but sits unexpectedly in a residential area's back alley.

Underground shelter system: Beneath the city streets lies Zerostrasse, a network of World War I tunnels originally built as air-raid shelters. Today, it serves as a cool escape from the summer heat and an exhibition space.

Integrated history: The Temple of Augustus, an ancient Roman temple, stands prominently in the Forum, Pula's main square, right next to the city hall.

Pula is officially bilingual, and it is common to hear both Croatian and Italian spoken by locals.

The Irish writer James Joyce lived and worked in Pula, Croatia (then known as Pola and part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire) for a short but important period from October 1904 to Match 1905. Joyce left Ireland with Nora Barnacle, his partner and future wife, in 1904. 

A bronze statue of James Joyce sits outside the Uliks (Ulysses) café at Portarata Square, near the school where he taught. It was created by Croatian sculptor Mate Čvrljak.

Croatia, St. Euphemia's Church in Rovinj, 29th October 2025

The story of St. Euphemia's Church in Rovinj is tied to the legend of its patron saint, a 4th-century martyr whose sarcophagus miraculously washed ashore and was moved by a young boy with his calves. 

The legend of the sarcophagus

According to the legend, St. Euphemia was a Christian virgin from Chalcedon (near modern-day Istanbul) who was martyred for her faith in 304 AD. Her remains were kept in a sarcophagus in Constantinople until the 9th century, when Christians, fearing persecution from iconoclasts, had her relics cast into the sea. 

The legend holds that the marble sarcophagus was found floating off the coast of Rovinj on July 13, 800. The people of the town tried to move the heavy tomb but failed, even with horses and oxen. 

Finally, a young boy with two small calves, inspired by a divine message from the saint, was able to effortlessly pull the sarcophagus up the hill to a church on the site. The townspeople viewed this as a miracle and proclaimed St. Euphemia their patron saint. 

The original church on the hill was dedicated to St. George, but after the arrival of the relics, it was rededicated to St. Euphemia. The present Baroque church, built between 1725 and 1736, stands in its place. 

The church and its bell tower, which is modeled after St. Mark's Campanile in Venice, have become an iconic landmark of Rovinj. A copper statue of St. Euphemia stands at the top of the tower, rotating with the wind. 

Today, the 6th-century Roman sarcophagus containing the relics of St. Euphemia is displayed behind an altar inside the church. 

Croatia, Rovinj 29th October 2025

Rovinj has a rich history spanning from prehistoric settlements to its modern-day status as a tourist hub, shaped by Roman, Byzantine, Venetian, and Austro-Hungarian rule.

Archeological findings show that the area around Rovinj was inhabited as far back as prehistoric times.

Roman Era (3rd–5th centuries AD): The settlement was first mentioned in the 7th century as "Castrum Rubini" in the Cosmographia, a work believed to be based on 5th-century information. At the time, Rovinj was situated on an island and served as an important fishing and maritime hub.

After the Roman Empire, the town came under Byzantine rule in the 6th century, followed by Frankish rule in the 8th century.

Venetian Republic (1283–1797): Rovinj sought Venetian protection from pirates and other threats, eventually becoming one of the first Istrian towns to fall under its control. The Venetian influence is still very visible in the city's architecture, with its narrow, cobblestone streets, colorful buildings, and the bell tower of St. Euphemia's Church, which was modeled after St. Mark's Campanile in Venice.

Connects to the mainland (1763): For centuries, the old town of Rovinj existed on an island. To accommodate its growing population, the narrow channel separating it from the mainland was filled in.

Habsburg Monarchy (1797–1918): After the fall of Venice, Rovinj became part of the Austrian Empire. It flourished during this period, with significant industrial, maritime, and cultural development, including the construction of a tobacco factory in 1872 and the arrival of the railway in 1876. 

20th century to present

Italian rule (1918–1947): Following World War I, Rovinj was ceded to Italy, further strengthening its Italian cultural ties. Italian is still an official language in Rovinj today.

Yugoslavia (1947–1991): After World War II, Rovinj was incorporated into Yugoslavia. A significant number of the Italian-speaking population emigrated from the city during this period.

Independent Croatia (1991–present): Rovinj became part of the independent Republic of Croatia. Today, it is a major tourist destination in Istria, attracting visitors with its romantic old town which we enjoyed and had coffee at one of the restaurants in the Marina.

The boats still used today for fishing have a museum dedicated to their original boat building.

The Monet BBQ 28th October 2025

Fantastic prawns and mussels as starters to the BBQ.

The cooking crew

Ready for Halloween