Sunday, 5 July 2026

Dogs of Georgia, 5th July 2026

Georgia’s tens of thousands of street dogs are practically an unofficial part of the country's social fabric.

Unlike in many nations, most of these "community dogs" are well-fed, vaccinated against rabies, and spayed or neutered through official management programs. Locals and shop owners often look after them, and they are generally very friendly. Walking around the cities, you notice colorful tags in the dogs' ears. A yellow tag means the city has vaccinated and spayed or neutered the dog, making it generally safe to interact with. A turquoise tag indicates locals have identified the dog as exceptionally friendly and docile.

Canyons and Caves, 5th July 2026

The tour started at 09:00 from Budget Travel Office in Kutaisi, prior to which we walk around to find some coffee and something to eat. Eventually we find an open coffee shop with very expensive coffee 8.9 Lari which equates to R55 for an americano, Michael's sandwich of croissant with ham cheese and salad was only 10 Lari R66.

Cool drinks in restaurants are around 500ml and they cost 5 Lari water is 3 Lari.

We made it back just in time to go on the trip.

The first stop is Okatse Canyon. This is the deepest canyon in Georgia with hanged bridges and sky walks. Okatse Canyon is a dramatic natural monument located in the village of Zeda Gordi within Georgia's Imereti region, best known for its thrilling 780-meter-long cliff-facing hanging walkway suspended up to 100 meters above the canyon floor. We hike the 7 km round trip over the canyon and back astounded by the views.
Our next stop is Martvili Canyon where we walk through the canyon and explore the depth of it, along with stunning waterfalls. Martvili Canyon is a stunning natural monument located in the Samegrelo region of western Georgia. Carved out by the Abasha River, (which means Retreat river) it is famous for its vibrant emerald-green waters, steep limestone walls, and dramatic waterfalls. Once a private bathing spot for the noble Dadiani family, it is now one of Georgia's most popular nature destinations
Hiking makes us starving, so we stop in the local restaurant for a lunch break. Michael has a beef stew and i have egg plant with walnut. Georgian food is excellent!
The last spot of the tour is Prometheus cave, that is 1,4 km long and is located 80 meters 
below surface level. In the cave there is a hall of love where people get married. Here you can enjoy the cave area and underground boating afterwhich we go back to Kutaisi. We are in the city at 19:00.

Saturday, 4 July 2026

Batumi and Mtirala National Park hike, 4th July 2026

We walked down to Budget Georgia Kutaisi around 7:15 to be there by 8:00. Nothing except Spar opens before 10:00 in Georgia,  managed to find a coffee at Spar. Our guesthouse is at the top of Kutaise about 1km walk. Not looking forward to our walk back up after watching the rugby at an Irish pub.

I digress. Our first stop is Batumi, famous as Georgia’s premier seaside resort, earning the nickname "the Las Vegas of the Black Sea" for its bustling nightlife and casinos. It is also renowned for its historic 7-kilometer coastal promenade, subtropical climate, and striking modern architecture juxtaposed with its 19th-century Old Town.

Once we arrived in Batumi we started a walking tour in and around the city. Our first stop was Europe square and statue of Medea.
The Statue of Medea is a prominent, monumental sculpture located in the center of Europe Square.

The bronze sculpture depicts Medea, the legendary princess of the ancient Kingdom of Colchis (which covered much of modern-day western Georgia). In Greek mythology, Medea fell in love with Jason, the leader of the Argonauts, and helped him steal the Golden Fleece from her own father, King Aeëtes. The statue captures Medea holding the Golden Fleece high in her outstretched hand.

Afterwhich we went to Piazza square and to 
Church of St. Nicholas. 
The Church of St. Nicholas is one of the oldest and most historically significant functioning Orthodox temples in Batumi. Built between 1865 and 1871 by the city's ethnic Greek community, this landmark stands in the heart of the historic Old Town directly across from the popular Batumi Piazza.
A Greek delegation obtained construction permission from the Ottoman Sultan, but under the strict condition that the church bells must never ring.
Following the 1878 Russian annexation of Batumi, regional soldiers brought a permanent bell to the tower. Money raised in 1895 allowed for the construction of a dedicated bell tower, finally permitting the bells to ring freely.
Soviet authorities closed the church for over a decade in the mid-1930s. Following World War II, a persistent petition by local women successfully pressured authorities to reopen it in 1946.
Today, it functions under Georgian Orthodox Church, with services held in both Georgian and Russian. I had to wrap a skirt around me and a veil over my head to go in to the church.
The floor of Batumi Piazza features the largest figurative marble mosaic in Europe, covering a total area of 106 square meters.
Walking along we passed the astronomical clock.
A quick look at the face tells you the exact position of the sun and moon, moon phases, the current zodiac constellation sign, and precise times for local sunrise and sunset.
It plays the Georgian national anthem on every hour.

From there we went to the Batumi port and had tea on a boat excursion of the black Sea.
Afterwards we visited the moving statue of Ali and Nino. It represents the famous 1937 novel Ali and Nino written under the pseudonym Kurban Said.The book details a tragic romance between Ali (a Muslim Azerbaijani youth) and Nino (a Christian Georgian princess). They struggle against heavy cultural boundaries and family expectations, only to be permanently torn apart by the geopolitical turmoil of World War I and the subsequent Bolshevik invasion.
It is a mesmerizing 8-meter kinetic sculpture that mechanically moves to merge and pass through each other every day, representing eternal love
The next stop was the alphabet tower of Batumi. A 130-meter-tall structure adorned with the 33 letters of the unique Georgian alphabet which is a restaurant and has a sign showing 'The One and Only', we assume it is going to be surrounded by a hotel of that name.
Then we walk down boulevard and through the  dancing fountains park.
The last stop of our excursion is The Drama Theatre of Batumi and statue of Neptune.
We go for lunch, Michael has chicken Kiev and I have a Georgian salad with walnuts.
We make our way to the National park. Once we get there we cross the river by the handmade cable-car and hike for 3 km up to the waterfall and 3km back down.
We swam in waterfalls.
Once we're exhausted we drive back to Kutaisi. The tour finishes at 20:00 and we get dropped off at Mary's Irish pub, order a beer and try to watch the rugby.
They don't have the channel, so after finishing our beer we walk across to the beer museum.
Another beer and some kinkales (a dumpling with a spicy meat centre). We watch the rugby to just before the second half at which point the channel is switched to a Georgian game. Jacqueline and Elmarie play commentators so we know that the Springboks win convincingly against England.
We walk back to the guest house..

Friday, 3 July 2026

Borjom-Kharagauli national park, 3rd July 2026

Tour started at 08:00 from the travel office in Tbilisi. We met our guide Giorgi, a lovely Georgian guide, ex rugby player so Michael was in his element.
We drove to our first stop, Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park Visitor center to get permission for the hike. Giorgi then drove us to the start of the trail.
Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park is one of the largest protected areas in Europe, covering over 85,000 hectares of dense forests and alpine meadows across the Lesser Caucasus mountains. It encompasses roughly 1.5% of Georgia's total territory and features a vast, well-marked network of trails ideal for ecotourism.
Beautiful scenery.
So, i thought i was fit. Was puffing like a steam train. 8km straight up and the other 8km was on screed with switchbacks guiding us down. The red spots are where I exceeded my max heart rate.
We stopped a few times for lunch and water breaks and then to put our feet in ice cold river water.
Stunning rock formations 
We then got a taxi back to the start and drove back to the start to drive to Borjomi where Michael found Georgian T shirts and we had lunch. Liver and hearts for me (I thought they were from a chicken) they were not. Still very good. Michael had spaghetti carbonara and we shared a plate of mushrooms. Delicious!!
The water is naturally carbonated from a local source and for R20 you can fill a bottle, which i did.
The driver that was supposed to collect us was late so we had to hang around Borjomi so we went to the park from which this water is sourced.
Borjomi carbonated water, one of the few industries in Georgia has a huge factory and the water is exported to multiple countries.
Finally the driver has arrived and we making our way to Kutaisi. Its raining a lot and still we can see the odd church in the countryside. 10000 active Orthodox Christian churches in Georgia!