18 Jan 2019 São Paulo

Flight arrived at 04:35 this morning from Santiago, Chile and we made our way through customs as our luggage was checked all the way through to Johannesburg, we only had backpacks so could go and explore the city for the day. We climbed on a free shuttle and went to the incorrect place, caught another and ended up correctly in the Metro station. 

We bought two tickets and armed with a map of the different lines set off for Lux station with a changeover to Brassa. All went according to plan except for the mountain of people on the train. Can not believe that the pictures of people with faces pressed against the windows is a reality. Everyone trying to get to work on time. The trains are so full that everyone squashed out and then we squashed in. The world disappeared and I fell through the gap between the train and the side of the platform. More scary for Michael as one minute I was there and next minute gone. Four strangers hands gripped my shoulders and pulled me out. I was very very lucky. Such a stupid thing to do but with the mass of people, I did not know the gap existed. Anyway a bit banged up though my thick long pants took the brunt of the punishment. Anyway we continued and successfully navigated our way out of the door to the station. We went to see a Cemetery and then a beautiful Catholic where we lit candles for Volvo, Aunty June, Aunty Val and Rita. A quick prayer to give thanks for all our blessing and thank you for looking after every one and everything. We walk and sit on a bench watching the dogs and their owners in the dog park. We hear an unearthly scream a bump on a roof of a car and a bump on the floor.  Uncertain of what happened and willing to go and look we carried on walking down the street while police and ambulances moved towards the scene. Completely shaken, we carry on and find a Starbucks and coffee. We walked through beautiful Art Deco buildings and galleries. Plazas with fountains and tall trees. Homelessness is a way of life and so many people and their dogs are lying around the beautiful parks fast asleep while we are walking. Onto the next street and a road block. Ambulances, people on motorbikes with Socorro’s on the back of their jackets. Police with AK 47s and people on the floor hands tied behind. Once again, too scared to go near, I assume it is an armed robbery and get away as fast as possible. Enough dreadful happenings, the stark reality of the occurrences, the murals and the homeless makes one realize how desperate people actually are. We made our way back to the airport and got back by 13:30. I am so very grateful for where I live, we are sheltered from the deep suffering of humanity. Carefully read the words and messages of these murals. It is heart breaking.

17 Jan 2019 Cycle Santiago

Lovely tour after our taxi could not find the address. Crazy as once we were let off too late to make the morning tour, we found it in 5 minutes. We walked around the city of Santiago in the morning. The rand is 1 to 50 the Chilean pesos so everything seems to cost large amounts but in actual fact food is very affordable comparable or slightly cheaper than SA beer on the other hand has taxes added (we think) as it’s R80 a beer. Our cycle ride took us all around Santiago and our guide Alfonso was very knowledgeable and explains the Socialist period, the Junta/ fascist period and their current period where the have,  represent 13% of the population. There is still much poverty in Chile and the financial divide seems to be growing. Picturesque city with lots to see.

16 Jan 2019 at Sea and last Zumba day

There were many more sea days than we were used to but we found things to do. Michael loved being out in the sun again after quite a few overcast and freezing days. I enjoyed Zumba everyday. We packed ate a really good dinner after a good comedy show and went to bed.

15 Jan 2019 - Puerto Montt

Got off with the tender service. Calm seas and overcast skies. An interesting town with no Internet. I am at the port, only internet around. Just grateful I found a place. Trying to pre-book an Uber for our ride in Santiago but no luck yet. Getting warmer as we return North but still cold enough for jackets. 

12, 13, 14 Jan 2019 At Sea and Amalia Glacier

Have not got off the boat in 3 days as the tender port of PuntArenas was too rough - we lined up got our tickets but could not get off as the Captain cancelled the tender service to shore. The Amalia glacier was beautiful though it has lost 7km in the last few years. Clear evidence of global warming.

11th Jan 2019 - Ushuaia, Argentina

Early morning for our excursion to an Eco Park for a walk in the forest. Very cold and wet. Raining in the morning and then sun. What a difference. We learned that there are not many indigenous animals and that from 20 beavers introduced by early settlers there are now over 100 thousand and have been declared a pest. Small town that started as a penal colony for Argentina. The prisoners built the prison, roads and railway.

10th Jan 2019 - Around Cape Horn

Another day at sea where we started to feel the very cold temperatures of the Antarctic. We rounded Cape Horn in very strong winds and rain. Stunning, stark scenery with rocky outcrops that appear out of nowhere. We started to see mountain peaks topped with snow.

9th Jan 2019 - at sea

Last night we watched the princess dancers and singers Motown show at 18:00 onto dinner at 19:30 and then the Man of many voices Show. A gentleman Thant is able to impersonate more than 200 famous people. A really good laugh. The night was a continuous roller coaster with some heavy lows where gravity seems to be pulling you down to suddenly as the boat lifts again, feeling as light as a feather. The high winds and weather should be behind us around 15:00 with everything back to normal. Open decks and swimming pools. It is getting colder as we move south with temperatures of 7 to 10 degree Celsius.

06 and 08 Jan 2019 - Days at Sea

We have just been told they there is a bad weather system over Stanley island in the Falklands so we are heading straight for Cape Horn. We are getting the tail end of the system and the deck on which we usually run/ walk around are all locked down. I guess Princess does not want people falling overboard, 50 knott winds and tottering aged with canes and walkers do not go well. So 2 days at sea, plus 1 day scenic cruising and then onto Ushuaia, the next port that we will be allowed onshore. The gym is open and empty early in the morning so after 45minutes on the step machine, laundry, Internet consultation as I lost 120minutes by not logging off properly...... Evidence on the server supported my claim so I got the precious minutes back. First Zumba class today. My favourite part of a sea day. We have seen the most amazing shows. The Princess singers and dancers are very similar to the dance shows in Sun City. Last night was a really good magician. Each night after a really good meal we head to the theater to be dazzled by high quality entertainment.

07 Jan 2019 - Puerto Madryn, Argentina

A coastal town with lots of water sports and many bars on the beach. Warm weather and a Welsh Settlement. In the 1800’s when the British were forcing the Welshman to speak English, a group of Welsh settlers moved to Puerto Madryn in Argentina. In the Museum there is a young Latino that only speaks Spanish and Welsh. These settlers struggled as there was no fresh water in the region as well as raids from the tribes inhabiting the Falklands. They lived in Caves which they carved into the cliffs on the sea side. We walked to and visited the museum and the caves returning to loud South American music and ice cold beer on the beach.

5th Jan 2019 - Montevideo, Uruguay

Funny show last night - a comedian ventriloquist. This morning started at 7:30 with a stretch class instigated by Michael then a great breakfast.Trying to lose 3 kilos, not going to happen, then again with all the working and gym maybe. We got off the shop and went into Montevideo town. Walked the markets and had a beer in the plaza. Bought Mate tea and am going to make some just now. Not much to see here. Everything seems closed possibly because it is Saturday or maybe for economic reasons. We are told that the currency of Argentina and Uruguay are both unstable and no one trusts banks or deposits money due to the devaluation. 70% interest given by the banks, does not cover the devaluation amounts.

2 references to Nelson Mandela in Montevideo 

4th Jan 2019 - Buenos Aires Cycle - Day 3

Taxi to the cruise terminal and then overnight on the Star Princess. So easy to find everything, it is as if we never left. Breakfast with smoked salmon. So very good! Taxi negotiations mmmm 600 pesos after 150 the previous day seemed rather high so we started walking and 700m later found another that had the cost based on time. Arrived at the cycling tour start and paid 200 which included a really good tip. What a great way to see Buenos Aires. We stopped for Mate tea and cakes which is served in one cup and shared around the group from the left. I liked it lots of caffeine and the actual tea is called erva as in grass or weeds. Manufactured and grown in Brazil but the preferred drink of most South Americans. The history of Argentina is harsh with genecide of the people opposing the current regime. A memorial wall of more than 30000 people that died at the hands of their own people. Continued cycling and stopped for a drink and choripao short for chorizo and pap (toasted bread) with loads of chili, eggplant, tomatoes that you add on for taste. Very very good eaten on the side of the road next to the river. Cycled back to the start and walked back to the shop.

03 Jan 2019 - Buenos Aires - Cape Horn Cruise

Breakfast around the corner after which we explored the city. Trying to find reading glasses for Michael. None available. So weird, maybe it is the Mate drink that keeps their eyes sharp, very few people seem to wear glasses. We will take a taxi to the peer and check in to the Star Princess our cruise ship. We stay in Buenos Aires on the boat tonight docked and have a full day tomorrow here only setting off  at 18:00 after a cycle around Buenos Aires. 

2nd Jan 2019 - Buenos Aires - Day 1 - Cape Horn Cruise

Arrived in Buenos Aires via São Paulo using SAA and Quatar airways. Well SAA is backward when compared to the other airlines, customer satisfaction definetly not a priority. Sad really as some of the air hostesses tried others sid the bare minimum and clearly hated their job. Quatar like Emirates and Cathay Pacific are in a different league. Inflight entertainment and customer service far superior. I sound like a spoiled brat but if SAA has to compete at this level they are currently being left far behind. It took 1/2 hour to reboot the archaic entertainment system and they ran out of meals. Weirdly another hostess found some a while later. Caught a taxi and checked into the AirB&B. We then having slept on the plane,  went for a long walk around the city.