Tuesday 18 July 2017

Robin Hoods Bay - last post for a while, until our next trip.

A very small village, previously a smugglers den. Evidence still exists of tunnels under the hotel. Up and down a single steep road waiting fir shops to open. Stayed there until 12:30 then caught a taxi to Carlyle, the Pennine express to Manchester airport with a change in York.

Uneventful, just very long trip from Manchester to Doha, Johannesburg, Cape Town and then 7 hour drive to SFB. Happy to be home.

Snow on the Swartberg mountains.





Monday 17 July 2017

Friday 14th July 2017 Grosmont (50M) to Robin Hoods Bay. Distance 15 miles - Long moderate - Height Gain 475m/1560ft - 7 hours

The road climbs steeply out of Grosmont (its not called the 1 in 3 for nothing) to its high point on Sleights Moor (285M), there are wonderful views to Whitby and the sea. Still on heather moorland the route descends into Littlebeck (50M). After the woodland walk it climbs back up to 200M and crosses a final stretch of moorland before following country lanes to the coast. We turn south to follow the coastal path to Robin Hoods Bay. Follow tradition once more by dipping your boot in the sea and throwing your pebble in (that should baffle the geologists in years to come). Your challenge is complete.

Well done!

• Standing on the cliffs above Whitby are the ruins of Whitby Abbey.

• The Hermitage in Littlebeck wood is a large hollowed stone.

• In the Bay Hotel you can sign the Coast to Coast book.

• 09:00 start from Grosmont

• Arrive Robin Hoods Bay 16:00



Friday 14 July 2017

Thursday 13th July 2017Blakey Ridge (400M) to Grosmont (50M). Distance 15 miles - Long moderate. - Height Gain 100m/330ft - 6 hours


High on the moors we follow a road for a few miles before returning to tracks through the heathers. Another road walk and then the route takes a broad disused track gradually descending Glaisdale Moor into Glaisdale village. We leave Glaisdale and the route, never far from the River Esk, passes through East Arncliffe Wood to Egton Bridge where it follows a once toll road through the private estate of Egton Manor to Grosmont.

• There are a few village shops and a pub in Glaisdale.

• Adopted as the symbol of Glaisdale Beggars Bridge has spanned the River Esk since 1619.

• The Toll House still displays the fees once charged to use the road.

• From Grosmont station trains run towards Whitby or Middlesborough. North York Moors steam trains follow their line south to Pickering.

• There is a pub serving evening meals, a few cafes and shops in the village.

• 09:00 start from Lion Inn

• Arrive Grosmont 15:00

Wednesday 12th July 2017Ingleby Cross (100M) to Blakey Ridge (400M). Distance 20 miles - Strenuous - Height Gain 970m/3190ft - 8.5 hours

A rollercoaster day. We walk up the forest trail and join the Cleveland Way. The route descends into Scugdale (100M). Not keen to stay low the path climbs steadily at first then steeply onto Gold Hill (315M). It continues onto Carlton Moor (408M) before descending to Green Bank (300M). Once again it climbs going over Cringle Moor (430M), descends to 280M back up to 400M, down again to 300M and then a final climb through the Wainstones onto Hasty Bank (398M) before descending to the road at Clay Bank Top (250M). If all the up and down seems like too much hard work there is a path that contours round the hills from Green Bank to Clay Bank. A final steep ascent to Carr Ridge (390M) is followed by a gradual rise to the summit of Round Hill (454M), the highest point on the North York Moors. The path descends to Bloworth Crossing (400M) were it leaves the Cleveland Way and continues on an almost level disused railway line across the desolate moors to the remote Lion Inn on Blakey Ridge.

• At Green Bank is the Lord Stones café, which is built into the hillside.

• The North York Moors are covered in purple heather during late summer months.

• Iron Ore has been mined for centuries from the Cleveland Hills. In 1861 rail tracks were laid across the moors to increase mining capacity. In the early 1900’s demand dropped and the railway was dismantled in 1929.

• 08:30 start from Ingleby Cross.

• Arrive Lion Inn 17:00

Tuesday 11th July 2017 Bolton on Swale, Richmond (150M) to Ingleby Cross (100M). Distance 17 miles - Long moderate - Height Gain 100m/330f

Transfer back to Bolton on Swale. The route to Danby Wiske is almost level and generally easy going, it crosses farmland and then follows 8 miles of country lanes and then farmland again across the low lying Vale of Mowbray to Ingleby Cross. From here we walk a short distance to our accommodation in Arncliffe Wood.
• Danby Wiske at 110ft is the lowest inland point on route.
• Ingleby Cross marks the start of the North York Moors national park and the Cleveland Hills.
• There are a few pubs serving evening meals and a shop in Osmotherley.
• 08:45 pick up in Richmond for transfer back to Bolton on Swale.
• Arrive Ingleby Cross 16:30
Lovely to arrive to Pimms!











Wednesday 12 July 2017

Thursday 6th July 2017Glenridding (150M) to Shap (250M). Distance 17 miles - Height Gain 760m/2500ft - 9 hours

A short valley walk then a sharp steep walk up to Boredale Hause (400M), the rocky path now climbs with less gradient past Angle Tarn and close to Satura Crag (600M), it descends to 500M and then climbs sharply again to round The Knott (739M). The route then turns sharp left onto High Street, an old Roman Road, and then right onto Kidsty Pike (780M) the highest point on route. From here look back across the Lake District and then turn to view the Eden Valley and the Pennine Mountains. We descend gradually at first then steeply down to Haweswater (250M), and follow the rocky path alongside the banks of the reservoir to Burnbanks. The terrain eases as the route crosses undulating farmland to Shap

• The Romans built High Street to link the Roman forts at Ambleside and Penrith.

• Haweswater reservoir was created by Manchester Corporation when they dammed and flooded the valley in 1935.

• The ruins of Shap Abbey stand by the banks of the River Lowther.

• There are several pubs serving evening meals and a few village shops.

• 08:30 start from Glenridding.

• Arrive Shap approx 17:30


Monday 10 July 2017

Monday 10th July 2017Reeth (200M) to Bolton on Swale near Richmond (150M). Distance 17 miles - Long moderate - Height Gain 400m/1315ft - 8 hours

Had dinner with Michaels cousins Michelle and Brian and Aunty Cath, at 86 Aunty C looks fantastic. We had a great dinner at the Kings Arms pub in Reeth, after a huge liquerice, cherry and blueberry ice cream!! 


Today we go to Richmond. This is a much easier day’s walk across rolling countryside passing Marrick Priory, Marske village and Whitecliffe wood. We arrive in Richmond at lunchtime and then continue (to reduce the following day’s distance) to Bolton on Swale in the afternoon. Short transfer back to Richmond.

• Founded by the Normans Richmond grew around the castle built on the ‘riche-mont’ or ‘strong-hill’ that gave the town its name and whose massive keep dominates all other buildings around.

• Visit the church in Bolton on Swale to see the monument to Henry Jenkins who died in 1670 at the age of 169.

• Richmond has several banks, shops, pubs and cafes.

• 08:45 start from Reeth.

• Arrive Bolton on Swale approx 16:45 for transfer back to Richmond


Sunday 9 July 2017

Sunday 9th July 2017Keld (350M) to Reeth (200M). Distance 11 miles – Strenuous - Height Gain 150m/490ft - 6.5 hours

The food has been fantastic. Quality and quantity. We are definitely going to be heavier when we get home. Huge variety of choices, right down to vegetarian sausage.  The route stays high and crosses moorland that is scarred from a lead mining industry that disappeared at the end of the 19th century. From Keld the route climbs past Crackpot Hall and the ruins of Swinner Gill mine workings. It crosses the moor (580M) before dropping into Gunnerside Gill (400M) and then up onto Melbecks Moor (550M). From here a broad track descends gradually passing the ruins of Old Gang Smelting Mills to Surrender Bridge (350M) and another smelt mill. The last test of the day is to drop into Cringley Bottom, cross the stream and then continue over the farmland to Reeth.

• The welts left by miners were created by releasing  a sudden gush of dammed water that stripped the vegetation to reveal possible mineral content.

• There are a few village shops, cafes and pubs in Reeth.

• 09:00 start from Keld.

• Arrive Reeth approx 15:30


Saturday 8th July 2017Kirkby Stephen (180M) to Keld (350M). Distance 13 miles - Strenuous - Height Gain 515m/1690ft - 7 hours

Lost all my posts 😩👣 the blogger app ate them - suddenly from 94 posts they reduced to 80 so as I was tired and couldn't remember, I just copied the info from our iternary.  Across Franks Bridge and head for the lane which becomes a broad path onto the Pennine Moors and the summit of Nine Standards Rigg (662M). Depending on the time of year there are three routes over and around Nine Standards; green (avoiding the summit) for winter and spring, red for early summer, and blue for late summer and autumn. All routes cross peat, which is notoriously boggy in wet weather, before descending to the River Swale and the road in to Keld.

• Nine Standards marks the point at which you cross from Cumbria into North Yorkshire, it is the start of the Yorkshire Dales, and a watershed for rivers flowing west or east.

• On Nine Standards are a group of ancient legendary cairns that have stood the test of time.

• Keld is half way.

Stopped at Amanda's a shepherdess - she has 7 children and a promoter of the coast to coast walk. Often on TV she makes tea and delicious scones - she raised 32000 pounds to create a walkway so that we would miss most of the area where previous coast to coasters got stuck in the bog.

• There is a farm café in Keld and Country Inn serving evening meals.

• 09:00 start from Kirkby Stephen.

• Arrive Keld approx 16:00


Saturday 8 July 2017

Wednesday 5th July 2017Grasmere (75M) to Glenridding (150M). Distance 8 miles - Strenuous - Height Gain 505m/1655ft - 5 hours

We follow the lane to Mill Bridge then take the rocky path which climbs steadily alongside Tongue Gill to Grisedale Tarn (550M). From Grisedale Tarn we follow the route down hill alongside Grisedale Beck to Patterdale valley and the village of Glenridding on the shores of Ullswater.

• Close to the outlet of Grisedale Tarn is the ‘Brothers Parting Stone’. This is the point that William Wordsworth last met his brother John who later died when his ship sank at sea.

• There is an outdoor equipment/clothing shop.

• There are a few pubs for meals and village shops.

• 11:30 start from Grasmere.

• Arrive Glenridding approx 16:30


Friday 7th July 2017Shap (250M) to Kirkby Stephen (180M). Distance 20 miles - Long moderate - Height Gain 150m/490ft - 8.5 hours

The Lake District Mountains are left behind and the gradients ease to cross the rolling farmland and hills in Eden Valley. We follow the footpaths across the limestone plateau passing the secluded hamlet of Oddendale and the granite boulders deposited by ice age glaciers. Orton lies a mile to the south of the route. We continue over rolling farmland and across the moors passing Sunbiggin, the hidden remains of several ancient settlements, and Smardale Bridge to the market town Kirkby Stephen.

• Close to today’s path is the ancient cairn Robin Hood's Grave.

• Marked on the map near Smardale Bridge are 'Giants Graves', or ancient 'pillow mounds'.

• In Kirkby Stephen there are banks, shops, pubs and cafes.

• There is an outdoor equipment/clothing shop.

• 08:30 start from Shap.

• Arrive Kirkby Stephen approx 17:00

Mild day long but through different terrain - enjoyable.

Tuesday 4th July 2017Rosthwaite (100M) to Grasmere (75M). Distance 10 m

We take the track alongside Stonethwaite Beck then a rocky path climbing steadily alongside Greenup Gill. We walk steeply up the steps and rocks (a bit tricky but not technical) to the left side of Lining Crag (500M) and admire the views to the north and east. Continue to Greenup Edge, today’s high point at 620M, and then descend the rocky path to the head of Far Easedale. Our guide then considers several factors and decides to either follow the ridge walk across Calf Crag, Gibson Knott and Helm Crag before descending steeply into Grasmere or take the less arduous route down Far Easedale. Very very wet weather.

• Grasmere is rich in art and poetry. It was once home to the poet Wordsworth.

• There are many little shops, cafes and a few pubs serving evening meals in Grasmere.

• There are several outdoor equipment/clothing shops.

• 09:00 start from Rosthwaite.

• Arrive Grasmere approx 15:00


Monday 3rd July 2017Ennerdale Bridge (100M) to Rosthwaite (100M). Distance 14 miles - Strenuous - Height Gain 530m/1740ft - 8 hours

We follow the country lanes to Ennerdale Water then the rocky path along the banks of the Lake. At the far end of the Lake we take the forest track that climbs gradually along Ennerdale valley to the remote Black Sail Hut YHA (290M). From the YHA continue to the bottom of Loft Beck and a steep ascent to the high point of the day at 600M. The views back to the sea are spectacular. We follow the rocky path across the fell and descend to Honister (330M). Continue descending into the beautiful Borrowdale valley to the village of Seatoller (120M) then follow the footpaths to Rosthwaite.

• Ennerdale YHA is 5 miles after Ennerdale village at the 19 mile point.

• Wainwrights ashes were placed near Innominate Tarn on Hay Stacks, this was one of his favourite places.

• At Honister there is a slate mine and shop (serving coffee and tea).

• Rosthwaite has a pub serving evening meals and small shop where you can buy packed lunches. Nearby Stonethwaite has a pub serving evening meals.

• 09:00 start from Ennerdale Bridge.

• Arrive Rosthwaite/Stonethwaite approx. 17:00


Sunday 2nd July 2017St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge (village height above sea level 100M).Distance 14 miles - Strenuous - Height Gain 685m/2250ft – 7.5 hours.

A plaque on the seafront marks the start of Wainwrights coast to coast walk. Tradition says to dip your toe in the sea and then collect a small pebble to carry with you to the east coast. Initially our route heads north along the coastal path with views of Scotland and the Isle of Man. We leave the coastal path and head east towards the Lake District Mountains. The route passes through the villages of Sandwith, Moor Row and Cleator followed by a steep walk up Dent (352M), the high point of the day. Admire the views before continuing across the hilltop and descending steeply down a forest track to Nannycatch Beck. We follow the beck and then a roadside path to Ennerdale Bridge.

• Ennerdale Bridge has two village pubs serving evening meals and packed lunches.

• 09:00 start from Stonehouse Farm.

• Arrive Ennerdale approx 16:30


Thursday 6 July 2017

The Inn at Grasmere

Lovely hotel, we met Janet, Megan and Jade and had a lovely dinner. Such a treat to meet them in England. So enjoyed their company. 


Tuesday 4 July 2017

Rothswaithe - Gillarcome B&B

Lovely day up and down dales and vales. Hay Stacks prominent in the distance throughout our walks with two of the waters behind us. The path is steep and rocky in many places which creates a ghost like atmosphere. In awe of the colours of the countryside.


Passed a slate mine and stopped for tea and an ice cream.



Sunday 2 July 2017

St Bees - the Irish Sea

Arrived around 15:00 on the train and explored the coast. Stark scenery in wind and brief rain showers.