Pointe-à-Pitre itself is a beautiful, brightly coloured riot of colour, filled with sumptuous smells and sounds to match. As an overseas territory of France, the culture in Guadeloupe is a mixture of French and Caribbean.
Built on top of what was once a patch of very swampy land, Pointe-a-Pitre’s history has been fraught with disasters. They’ve been through earthquakes, hurricanes and fires- plus a few cholera epidemics for good measure- but these copious amounts of calamities haven’t affected the beating heart of the city, and Guadeloupe cruise port is one of the best Caribbean ports of call for immersing yourself in local culture.
Although parts of the city consist of ramshackle wooden houses and shuttered windows, amongst all this are great big concrete skyscrapers that look like 1970s social housing with a colourful Caribbean twist. These tropical blocks of concrete are common across French islands; brightly-coloured cousins for their French counterparts in Europe.
In the morning we took a ship tour - eco kayaking, great fun. After a half hour bus trip we got onto a marina with lots of kayaks.
Unusual way of getting going, all the boats caught each other and formed a raft.
The Trees of Life: The dominant feature, of course, were the mangroves themselves - their gnarled, aerial roots reaching down from the branches like twisted fingers, anchoring the trees firmly in the soft mud while creating a complex network of tunnels and pathways for us to navigate. Our guide explained the different species, highlighting how the red mangrove (the only mangrove tree type available in this ecosystem), with its distinctive prop roots, acts as a pioneer species, colonizing new areas and creating the foundation for the ecosystem.
Hidden Creatures: As we paddled deeper, we spotted small crabs scurrying across the mud flats, their quick movements a blur against the dark substrate. Tiny fish darted in and out of the mangrove roots, their silver scales flashing in the dim light, while tiny shrimp scuttled beneath the surface, their translucent bodies barely visible. Occasionally, a larger fish would break the surface, creating a ripple as it chased its prey.
A Birdwatcher's Paradise: Above us, the canopy was alive with avian activity. Brown Pelicans flew gracefully or floated patiently in the water. When they took flight, they then dived down and unlike their white brethren that scoop water and fish, they catch only the fish and eat it immediately. To maintain fitness, the Brown Pelican eats two kilograms of fish per day.
The Underside of the Ecosystem: Our guide pointed out the delicate seagrass beds that thrived in the calmer waters, providing vital food sources for marine life. On the bottom, we could occasionally glimpse starfish clinging to the mangrove roots, their vibrant colours a stark contrast against the murky backdrop.
A Fragile Balance: Our guide emphasized the importance of preserving this unique habitat, highlighting the threats posed by pollution, coastal development, and climate change. The mangrove ecosystem, though seemingly hidden, provides critical nursery grounds for countless marine species such as lemon sharks and acts as a natural buffer against storm surges.
A Paddler's Perspective: As our kayak glided silently through the labyrinthine network of mangrove roots, the dense canopy overhead filtering the sunlight into dappled patterns on the water, we were immersed in a vibrant tapestry of life, a hidden world teeming with unique flora and fauna exclusive to this coastal ecosystem. As we emerged from the mangrove tunnels, with Michael eventually verbalising his frustration with my steering – (hey there are no rudder pedals on these kayaks) he took over the steering and I became the engine and just paddled. We left with a profound sense of wonder and appreciation for the intricate beauty of this hidden world. Our kayak tour through the mangroves was not just a journey through a scenic landscape, but a glimpse into the remarkable biodiversity that thrives in the delicate balance of this unique ecosystem.
White Rum!!!
In the afternoon, Michael had the local beer and I had a Ti Punch, by the description, you would assume it was a punch, rum with some sort of juice. We have had punch in previous islands and it was a mixture of guava berry juice and rum - very tasty. Well, not Ti punch, it is neat white rum (Darren says be careful of white rum mum) with sugar and lemon pieces that have been squeezed. Potent stuff. I could not finish it.
At night we met the General Manager, a French lady called Lowrance and the HR gentlemen and had dinner in the main dining room with two other couples apparently randomly picked and invited. Lots of fun was had by all. I had halibut and Michael had guinea fowl. At the farm we have loads of guinea fowl, apparently it was lovely.
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